Seoul, South Korea Part 1

안녕하세요 (annyeonghaseyo)

Once again, the #1 son is overseas and we plan a visit. It's a long way to go and I got the arrival day mixed up. Upon arrival in Tokyo we must sit on the plane with shades closed while people in paper hazmat suits come on board and take the ambient temperature. It is the height of the SARS epidemic. We are given a bright yellow paper and allowed to proceed. We run like crazy to try and catch the last flight to SEOUL, pleading to be let on when we are told there will not be a meal for us. Finally we arrive in the Republic of Korea.

The bus let us off right across the street from our hotel in the Itaewon area. The kid has class so we meet up with him later that night. The hotel is worn. The carpets stained, the wallpaper peeling and the “complimentary slippers” are well, well worn. They get kicked under the bed.

It is pouring the next morning. A good day for the Korean War Museum. Things we both find interesting. I have more fun looking for English translation signs with bad grammar. This would be a good job for me. Later we wander the streets with the kid in search of dinner. Cass beer is mild but every table in this restaurant has cooled beer holders so your drink never gets warm. I LOVE it!

The streets are clean and there are public toilets everywhere inside buildings, with signs to tell you. This is my first trip to Asia and I love the bustle and sights.

Child's public toilet.

Day two we are off early on a tour to the the DMZ and Panmunjom where there is a collection of blue UN buildings. In the main conference room mikes on the tables constantly record everything said. You are allowed to straddle the ceasefire line. This is the only place where you can safely walk into North Korea. South Korean soldiers stand guard inside and out in a modified tae-kwondo stance. Outside you can see these soldiers standing half hidden by the building. We are told it is harder to be a target when only half exposed.

Only 44km (27 miles) from Seoul, the tunnel was discovered in October 1978. It runs through bedrock about 73m (240ft) below ground. It is apparently designed for a surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea, and can easily accommodate 30,000 men per hour along with light weaponry. (http://en.wikipedia.org)

I can officially say that I have been to “North Korea” after walking around the table that spans both countries. Beauty and danger are mixed in this historic setting. Despite its name, the DMZ separating the two Koreas, which remain technically at war, is one of the world's most heavily militarized frontiers, bristling with watchtowers and landmines.

The DMZ

    

Half visible = less target.

The road of no return.

 Another evening spent wandering and finding eats.

Next day we head to Yongsan Electronics Market and Namdaemun Market. You name it, and there is a market or a street filled with items. Electronics. Sewing notions. Quilts and table cloths. My men are entranced in the tool shops.

Anything you could possibly want.

We finish the day at Seoul Tower. We wander and people-watch. Interesting artwork above us. The “Locks of Love” area (similar the one recently taken down in Paris) make me wish I had a lock of my own to place there. Kid and I share a cotton candy and man has his picture taken by young local girls. He says they think he is Clint Eastwood. ;-)

 

the King's room

The nexy day kid drops us off at the Gyeongbokgung Palace. This was the main royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, built in 1395. Beautiful and colorful architecture inside and out. Costumed King and Queen  parade about. 

Burgers at the roof top Beer Garden for dinner

Next day Seodaemun Prison. This place gives me the creeps. Sound track moans and screams while families with small children walk about, the children trying out the various torture chambers. I sit on the “death seat” in front of my jury. Yes it moved. Yes I screamed.

 

One last dinner with the kid and we are headed home again.